Initializing... drag & drop files here
Supports: JPG, JPEG, JFIF
Turn a JPG photo into a TIFF (Tagged Image File Format) image for printing, desktop publishing, or long-term archiving. TIFF is the format print shops and editors prefer because it can store images with lossless compression, so re-saving an edited file never adds new artifacts. One honest caveat up front: a JPG is already lossy, and converting it to TIFF locks in whatever detail survived the original compression — it stops further loss on future edits but cannot restore data the JPEG threw away. Files are uploaded over an encrypted connection, processed on our servers, and deleted automatically a few hours after conversion — no sign-up, no watermark, never shared or made public.
| Compression Type | Lossless? | Typical use | Viewer support |
|---|---|---|---|
| LZW | Yes | Default for print and archiving | Broadest — read by virtually every TIFF reader |
| ZIP (Deflate) | Yes | Smaller lossless files | Wide, but a few legacy tools skip it |
| JPEG | No | Smallest TIFF, photos where size matters | Limited — some print/scan tools reject it |
| None (uncompressed) | n/a | Maximum compatibility, largest file | Universal |
No. A JPG has already discarded picture data during its lossy compression, and that loss is permanent — converting to TIFF carries the existing detail across unchanged but cannot recover anything the JPEG removed. What TIFF gives you is no further degradation: with a lossless compression type like LZW you can open, edit, and re-save the TIFF repeatedly without adding new artifacts, which is why archivists and print shops prefer it over re-saving JPEGs.
Nothing — they are the same format. "TIF" is just the truncated three-letter spelling left over from the old DOS 8.3 filename limit, while "TIFF" is the full extension; both identify a Tagged Image File Format file and open in the same software. Our converter outputs a .tif file by default, and you can rename it to .tiff with no effect on the contents.
For most people, LZW: it is lossless and the most universally readable TIFF compression, which matters when a print shop or editor opens your file. Choose ZIP (Deflate) if you want a smaller lossless file and know the receiving software supports it. Only choose JPEG compression if file size is critical and you accept that it is lossy and that some professional tools cannot read JPEG-in-TIFF.
Because TIFF stores image data with lossless or no compression, while JPG uses aggressive lossy compression. A photo that was a few hundred kilobytes as a JPG can become several megabytes as an LZW TIFF — that larger size is the cost of a format that does not throw detail away on each save. If a smaller TIFF matters, try ZIP (Deflate) compression, or for general size reduction use the Image Compressor.
Generally no. Per MDN, Safari can render TIFF natively, but Chrome, Firefox, and Edge do not display TIFF in a web page without an add-on or library — TIFF is built for print, scanning, and archiving rather than the web. If you need an image to show in a browser or email body, keep it as JPG or convert it back with TIFF to JPG.
TIFF can hold higher bit depths, and our converter offers a 16-bit (High Precision) option. In our testing, exporting a JPG to 16-bit TIFF produces a valid high-bit file, but it gives no real benefit over 8-bit because a standard JPG only carries 8 bits per channel to begin with — the extra bits are empty headroom. Pick 16-bit only when a downstream editing pipeline specifically requires it; otherwise 8-bit keeps the file smaller with identical visible quality.